Climbing the Volcanoes of Mexico
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I got into Mexico city airport at 2 pm and had to wait until 7:30 pm for climbing partner Doug Treloar. The airport was
very clean and the beer and food was MUCH cheaper and just as good as in the American airports. You'll find buses
to all the popular destinations outside of gate E. There's a secure place to store your bags by booth #10.
Our trip included an acclimatization climb of el Pico del Fraile near Toluca. We chose this peak for several reasons;
1 - acclimatization, 2 - it's off the beaten path and 3 - its interesting geology. Being off the beaten path there was
little info for trip planning and this segment of our journey had many unknowns. We caught the 1st class bus from
the airport to Toluca and hired a taxi there.
All the popular hotels were full so we ended up finding a shabby room at the Hotel Bravo for $112 pesos/night by the central square downtown. There are several motels around the square that are slightly cheaper and look cleaner than the Bravo. I wouldn't hesitate to stay in one on future trips.
Toluca is much cleaner than the other towns we traveled through and the town square was decorated for Christmas. We spent our spare time sipping coffee and nibbling pastries here. At night they have plays and concerts in the sunken amphitheatre.
Alberto, our taxi driver spoke no English and we knew just as much Spanish but he was very patient and accommodating so we asked him to pick us up at 8 am the next day and drive us to Nevado de Toluca. He got used to looking at my list of Spanish phrases and counted the money we gave to vendors and the change they gave us to make sure we weren't paying too much.
You can drive right into the crater. From there it's ~1500 vertical feet to the summit and should take you 3 hours or so. Follow the left ridge line up from the road.
Looking east towards Popo (right) and Ixta. A local returning from market at 14,000'+.
Alberto climbed with us for a while but turned back at this steep section and waited for us in his cab.
This is a respectable climb, especially if you go from ~900 msl to 15,390' in less than 27 hours like we did. There is a camp grounds but you'll have a long hike from there. There is an occupied building at the park entrance but we never checked if lodging was available and it is a ways from the crater. The best bet is to drive to the crater and have your cabby wait for you.
On day 3 we had Alberto take us to the bus depot and we began our long journey via Mexico City airport to
Puebla to Tlachichuca. Avg. time = 2+ hrs/leg. On the way, Popo and Ixta dominate the skyline. Every few hours Popo vents a little steam. When you get to the Puebla bus depot, have a porter take your bags and tell him your destination. He'll take you to the proper ticket booth and then to the correct terminal. They aren't allowed to ask for a tip but they expect one. Be generous...we gave ours $20 pesos ($2 US).
On the 2nd class bus to Tlachichuca an armed Federally boarded the bus and did a random search of several
carry on items. He asked (with a firm tap on my shoulder) to see my bag and when I pointed to it in the overhead bin
several rows ahead of me he went to the next person and searched through her diaper bag. A stark reminder if you
need one at this point, that you're definitely in a third-world country.
Upon arriving in Tlachichuca we asked for directions to
Senor Joaquin Canchola Limon's hacienda which was only 5
blocks away. This view of the front of Joaquin's house is looking towards town in the direction of the bus station. When you exit the front of the bus station go left to the next intersection. Turn left and go about 2 blocks then turn right. Street names are painted on the buildings at each corner.
This shot is looking in the same direction as the above picture except from the roof of Joaquin's guest quarters. The church off in the distance (tallest structure) is across the street from the bus depot.
His hospitality and lodgings were much appreciated after our long journey.Our rooms were comfortable and secure.
Doug (left), Mike (center) and myself in Joaquin's dining room the first day. Joaquin's wife, Guadaloupe, prepared our supper while he and daughter Maribella (sp) acquainted us to our surroundings. Maribella speaks some English, Joaquin knows a few words and Guadaloupe knows even less. We communicated effectively despite our mutual lack of each others' language.
Joaquin (center) and his family are very friendly and accommodating. Behind us is the main beast of burden. I could kick myself for not getting a picture of Maribella and Guadeloupe. Don't take for granted that they stock beer. I asked for a beer and the next thing I knew Maribella was out the door going into town to buy some. There are plenty of places for you stop on your way to Joaquin's from the depot.
As you round the north ridge coming from Hidalgo, you are presented with this spectacular view of Orizaba. The shiny spot in the center is the Octavio Alvarez hut at Piedra Grande.
Doug and I set up camp and prepared to scout the trail to 16,000'. This is the best spot in my opinion. The hut is crowded, noisy and full of mice.
The northern or Jamapa route starts uphill from the O.A. hut near an iron cross. The trail contours south with little altitude change on the west side of the gully. Towards the upper end of the gully the well-worn trail will veer uphill. You will go around the right end of the cliff band visible in the center of the picture.
Once around the end of the cliff band you'll be in a narrow valley. Use of an ice axe and crampons were essential here. Continue up the valley which is at the base of el Sarcofago (right). Beware...we saw a lot of rocks raining off the walls here. In fact on this day a baseball sized rock hit me on the foot and on summit day a golf ball sized rock hit me in the chest while I was busy dodging other rocks.
After our acclimatization hike, we spent the rest of the 5th, and all day the 6th putzing around base camp. There was no one summitting the 6th. Two world renowned guide services were sharing base camp with us. The lead guide for one - called off their summit bid due to group dynamics and abilities. Maybe not a bad choice considering 3 russian climbers (roped) slid to their deaths a few days later.
There was an inch or two of sun crust on the lower two thirds of the glacier. Towards the top it was thin or warm enough to kick steps in. Laying down for this shot threw the horizon off level. It's a little steeper here than first glance.
On the Jamapa Glacier at approx. 16,000 ft. There are tent platforms here.
A guided group of 10. 3 decided 17,000 ft was all they could do and stopped.
The pinnacle seen here is La Aguja de Hielo (Ice Needle). The needle is visible from Piedra Grande towards the left side of the cone. If you aim for this you will still have to traverse around the crater rim to the summit.
An alternate course is to traverse over to the Ruta Espinoza that takes a direct line from el Sarcofago (seen straight ahead below Doug) to the summit.
View of the summit across the crater from the Ice Needle.
Though the Normal Route is technically a non-technical climb...one must still posses the requisite skills for glacier travel. An ice axe and crampons
are essential here. I have used ski poles to self arrest...they are marginal at best solo - and useless for roped teams (which may have been a contributing factor with the dead Russian team).
Off to the west is Malinche (right), Ixta (center) and Popo.
We spent a half hour at the summit & would have spent longer...
...but the clouds seen here beyond the ice needle quickly enveloped the summit and lingered for several days dumping about 5 inches of snow.
Print this map (from Secor's guide) for ease of navigation. Some of the folks I talked to didn't know where Tlachichuca was.
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